Il Dolce Far Niente

July 2013

Spent 4th of July weekend on high mountains by riding on a mountain bike and hiking.

Under two hours distance from San Diego were San Jacinto mountains, its wilderness and the Pacific Crest Trail. Highest peak was above 3000 meters (above 10 000 ft). The whole area was within a San Bernardino National Forest.

Drove to a small hippie town called Idyllwild. Called as a hidden treasure of Southern California, it laid on 1600 meters above sea level, aka 'a mile high'.

Idyllwild town was practically few streets with wooden cottages along them, surrounded by massive pine and cedar trees. Really awesome place. Lily Rock with Tahquitz mountains were its landmark which you could see from the town. East side of high mountains was a desert with a legendary city of Palm Springs.

Dedicated day one for mountain biking. Started riding from Hurkey Creek Park, near Lake Hemet. A singletrack trail rised first kilometers passing Keen Camp Summit from where it started to descend towards a meadow. San Jacinto mountains were on east. After the meadow the trail continued ascending towards Idyllwild.

Next took a trail to May Valley. Breathing became heavier, searching for a smaller gear from the bike became a constant habit. After the peak the trail descended to Saunders Meadow. Cute cottages were hided behind high pine trees.

When returning back, met some real cowboys and cowgirls, cool! Riding on singletrack trails was really enjoyable.

Day two was about conquering Mount San Jacinto peak, reaching above 3000m level. Hiking on wilderness area required preregistering on a local Ranger office. In addition to that, the first trail where I was planning to start conquering trip required a signed permission from the Ranger. So, first thing in the morning was to rush into Ranger's office and get a stamped permission. Done it in good time. Then drove to Humber Park where to start hiking.

A Devil's Slide Trail lead up to Saddle Junction where Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) crossed other trails. Met some other blokes and continued with them via PCT towards Wellman Divide.

Trails split again, while PCT trail continued towards north, we headed via another trail to north east. Condition of the trails were really good, not so much erosion on them. Steady ascending all the time, no steep sections, few flat ones though. After Miller Peak arrived finally at San Jacinto Peak. A sign showed 10834 ft. Awesome!

Looking scenery from the peak one could see Palm Springs and a desert on east and San Bernardino mountains on north. Enjoyed scenery a while and then descended via the same trails back to Idyllwild. Altogether about 26km, worth every meter. Tom Harrison's waterproof map was a good company.

What to remember from the weekend? At least huge old trees, awesome mountains, singletrack biking trails, cosy PCT hiking trails, Idyllwild town like a hidden jewel with friendly people, fresh mountain air and nature itself. Recommended.

Epilogue

Two weeks after my visit learnt that massive wild fires have caught the same area. Until now nearly 30 000 acres of wild mountain area had burnt down, doing really big damage there. Really sad.

Photos

San Jacinto mountains

Early morning sunlight on a PCT

Twisted

Suicide Rock, better known for rock climbing

Something sharp hit my pants all the way, took a while until I noticed why

Quite a surprise in the middle of a forest, fancy ferns

A pine tree

Old mummy

An amber feather, wonder whose?

Massive trees along the PCT

Into open space

A view towards South Peak

Rocky road

Like out of space with pine trees

Tahquitz mountains

San Jacinto Hiker's Cabin

A view from San Jacinto peak towards Big Bear Lake

Free open seats

Tahquitz mountains and Lily Rock

Cut by nature

Quite a size, didn't mean a shoe

July 2012

Hot Saturday and was planning to visit a beautiful small village on Ticino mountains, which one often sees while travelling back on forth of Blenio valley. Namely Monte Greco, aka Muncrech in local dialect.

The village laid on the edge of the mountain sharing the same name, on about 1150m above the sea. Looking at it down from the valley it really looked like it's hanging there on the edge.

Society and active people have renovated a church in the village. Heard also that they've prepared hiking paths there (there's no car road for there, and hoping never would be).

Started my trip on foot from Motto village, further down on Valle di Blenio (about 400m above the sea). First walked via old railway path towards Malvagia, where the actual hiking path started. The Blenio valley indeed used to have a railway, at least up until Acquarossa (to my knowledge). All rails have been removed and ancient path is hardly in any use now.

Old railroad path followed near Brenno river, which had crystal clear water even on summer time (and bloody cold!) From north of Malvaglia took a trail from Rongie to Pontei. Some heavy climb in the beginning raised heartbeat well enough.

The trail climbed along heavy forest, having some old open fields here and there.

Pontei, a small village, was on the mouth of Malvaglia valley. An Orino river was somewhere down below. A group of people experienced canyoning in there. Followed the trail up till the old bridge, Ponti di Cane, and walked through the old bridge, to head further down the path up until the village of Cane. From Cane, started a renovated (or a new?) path towards Montegreco.

The trail was not easy to hike. There was still about 300m to go on vertical level. Crossing a small creek full of water was not the easiest task. There seemed to be more water than stepping stones were made for.

Wild strawberries interrupted the hike more often that shootings of photos. Sweaty but happy arrived on the open field which looked familiar, though seen it only down from the valley. Goats ate happily grass.

Sounds of building construction proved the village was not too far. When arrived, it was satisfying to see almost the whole Blenio valley. It did look gorgeous.

Fresh water, a small break and towards the newly renovated church (or a chapel?). Fine handcraft work, newly glass paintings, a bell. Things to see, including the view towards Biasca.

For returning chose another trail, which came straight down to Malvaglia, via a Prastinei and Piughei villages. Along the trail were destroyed old stone houses, probably caused by avalanche (winter or summer time). Some old oak trees looked noble and massive.

When arriving on the road which headed to Malvaglia valley, took a short cut to see an old Roman time bridge, Ponte Lau. Awesome looking old bridge. Orino river was somewhere far below.

Another shortcuts via vineyards to see Malvaglia church. It had old restored paintings on its walls. A bell tower graced the yard. Walked via the village and crossed the Brenno river, and walked via old trail towards Ludiano village.

Near Ludiano church grew Merlot grapes, which home made wine I've had privilege to drink several times (Salute!). There's a great Grotto in Ludiano, too (try risotto ai funghi).

Final view before the hike was over, an old San Pietro church in Motto (though another side of Brenno river). A masterpiece and renovated in good touch (well done Piero!).

Hard walk was behind, polenta with local dry sausage and cheese (with merlot) speeded up recovery from the heavy day (at least I was hoping so).

Ever since I see Montegreco, I look at it now on a different view than before, admiring people keeping it alive.